Americanitis, SKIMS, ur validation index, actually wearable tech, and 'innovation'.
March madness is here!
Have you heard of Americanitis? It’s a term from pre WW1 but it could be from now.
I forget how i found this piece from 2015, but it’s making me realize this whole thing *gestures around* is part of the fabric of this place (America). Read it and feel less crazy. I do not have a smart summary here, I just think it’s funny it’s been the same vibe for this long.
Some writers saw Americanitis—“the hurry, bustle and incessant drive of the American temperament,” as the psychiatrist William S. Sadler defined it—as a cause of disease, responsible for high blood pressure, hardening of the arteries, heart attack, nervous exhaustion, and even insanity. To others, though, it was a disease it its own right, a consequence of the country’s incessant busyness and a close relative of neurasthenia, another fashionable diagnosis of the day.
The Brief History of Americanitis.
The Devil works hard, but SKIMS’ partnerships and casting teams work harder
Really gorgeous branded feature for Slam on the stars of the Skims campaign. Once again, SKIMS told you they were following the Jordan model.. I didn’t realize how literally they would parlay it into basketball, but it seems like it’s working. As far as I can tell, the only notch against SKIMS right now is the lack of transparency on their sustainability. They scored a 0 on this fashion accountability report last week.
What’s your validation index looking like?
Whatever you think of the latest Denim Tears collection (……), there’s some interesting nuggets of career wisdom/self-reflection in this episode of Business of HYPE between Angelo Baque + Tremaine Emory. I liked the idea of a personal validation index that you return to that has more healthy inputs than the ones presented to us on the daily (usually via our phones). I’ve extracted / edited the relevant bits below.
AB: Whats the one thing - if you could turn back the clock to those negotiations or talks [with Supreme], that you think you would have said, "you know what, I need this [___]."
TE: I would say Slow Down. Tranquillo.
You don't have to say yes just because [..]. I felt I had to do it. Acyde was like, Nah. and not because Supreme sucks, Supreme is a great brand! But because what do you think you can change there? What are you going to really achieve? Is the money and time worth what you're losing, and the pressure? Re-invigorating a brand that has become a heritage Streetwear brand, and isn't really popping how it was?
So, I would say to kids, really think about your validation index. Why are you doing this? You don't owe nobody nothing. If it really works for you, cool, go do it, but do what's best for you and what's healthiest for you - and if you have your own brand and it's popping, THATS the best thing for you. Thats the advice i'd give. If you have your own thing, why are you scared to pour fully into your own thing, what you're about to give to someone else?
Talk to your peers. I didn't do that. I was speedin'. Flights, V Died, boom. i got the offer the week V died. I should've just been like, guys i'll talk to you in a month.
AB: Would you say that was a little ego-driven then?
TE: Yes, definitely. Validation of getting that stamp. Validation. [..] Kids wearing me and my friends clothing, why do i need more validation than that? I'm working on finding validation from [my peers].. vs just Bernard Arnault giving me a job, or something like that.
Life as the child of a ‘Creator’ (f.k.a Mommy Bloggers)
Mommy bloggers were some of the earliest creators who were able to effectively monetize and build community around their content online. I remember it like it was yesterday yall, working on pitching influencer strategies for Unilever an unmentionable amount of years ago. Anyway, there was a brutal piece recently published by Cosmo titled “What’s the Price of A Childhood Turned Into Content” which starts to examine the aftershocks of existing in the shadow of your parent’s monetization schemes from folks who are now in their early 20’s. It’s pretty eye-opening. As a non-parent I don’t feel there’s much i can authoritatively say, but as a former tech employee it’s always been pretty telling to me that the people who make these products and services keep their kids extremely far away from it all…
‘Wearable Tech’ and other ghosts of 2014
When I was at Apple (briefly, in 2014 lol) Wearable Tech was the most uttered phrase in silicon valley, pre- and post-Watch launch. It was the season of Google Glass, and figuring out how to integrate tech into items we love, wear, in a stylish and non-disruptive way. It seems like Apple abandoned that effort a little - not much has been done to make the Apple Watch look actually chic, and the Vision Pro is notably referred to as a ‘prophylactic and contraceptive’ by podcaster Prof G.
To me the most actually impactful wearable tech has been the Meta Ray Bans stealth infiltration away from tech nerds over the past few months. Flowers & kudos to whoever is seeding these & managing the go-to-market because it’s been very cool to see the product picked up and used by so many interesting creative people (Voguing, making ceramics, just endless cute POV type content). I noticed it first on Mel Renee, an NYC-based Stylist. Mel and I did some work together via See Me 4 years ago on my first editorial season at Nike, and as well as her being an incredibly talented collaborator, her taste level is impeccable - so when I saw her in them I had to do a lil Q&A.
(check out slide 2 of the carousel for a peek at the shades!)
GG: Were the ray bans #gifted? if yes, do you think you would've tried them anyway?
The Raybans were gifted! It’s funny you ask because I tried them on before being gifted and would have purchased, but the display wasn’t working so I went in a different direction. Luckily I was gifted these after working with the brand.
GG: Have you noticed other people in your world also wearing them? whats the sentiment overall?
I actually haven’t seen anyone else wearing the glasses but when I’ve worn them out to fashion shows or on set everyone asks me a million questions, and one makeup artist even ended up buying them.
GG: Can you see yourself using these for work on a semi-regular basis? Is it handy to be able to document your process, etc?
I’ve started using them already, and I love filming the process on set. The only thing that makes them difficult to use on set is that I was gifted the shades, and obviously don’t always want to wear shades inside. I may get the translucent pair so that I can use them all of the time.
GG: If not, would you more likely use it for personal?
I’m using for both. The photos and videos are extremely clear and I love the perspective.
GG: What was the most surprising thing about using them?
How clear the images are!
GG: Do you have any predictions as a stylist about wearable tech?
I can see more brands tapping into the technology for a variety of even more stylish and modern silhouettes. I can definitely see Gentle Monster hopping onto this trend after seeing two robots doing a modern dance at their last event! [EDIT: you can check that out here]
Some cute partner content from the official account.
You can buy Meta Ray Bans here, and I think I might do just that myself just out of curiosity…. i will report back.
Another wearable tech item that crossed my feed this week is this gorgeous collab from Bose and Maggi Simpkins.
Looks like they might need help on the roll-out though because i cannot find any coverage of this that isn’t Music industry paid posts. These could seriously be such a hit if people would find out about them! Nice long thread on LinkedIn about the collab here if you’re curious.
Big week for the feets business, (no karreuche)
Nike are posting earnings this week (Thursday!) so the heat is on. Analysts are implying that there could (should?) be an imminent change in leadership -
In a note to investors last week, Morgan Stanley analysts led by Alex Straton also noted the possibility for a leadership change at Nike, given stunted progress in its DTC plan. This, Straton said, could be a potential positive catalyst “that could reignite bullishness on the stock” over the next twelve months. (Footwear News)
Savage….
Matt Powell, sneaker biz analyst also weighed in on this BOF piece, titled “Nike, Lululemon, and Activewears Innovation problem” with a LinkedIn post that essentially implied people dont care about innovation (i am inclined to agree).
"Innovation" is a overused and misunderstood concept. Brands that played it safe during the pandemic and leaned hard on core products now look stale and dated (Nike, UA, Adidas). Brands that stayed fresh, flourished (LULU, Hoka, On, NB). It is not about new technologies (which are incremental at best) but rather about fashion. Consumers still demand new and fresh products. Those that deliver here, will win.
Watch Adidas here. Gulden's recent statements on the importance of catering to the US consumer are encouraging. If they truly embrace this approach, Adidas could turn around overnight, and seriously threaten Nike's US dominance. […]
Some have tried to say the industry is sick. Nothing could be further from the truth. But a few very sick brands are dragging the business down. Those retailers who are dependent on these sick brands are getting dragged down as well. Something has to change (and it is).
I do think he’s right that it’s about keeping things fresh from a style perspective. It’s not just that swoosh keeps trotting out retros (a lot of the silhouettes that are flying off shelves from NB and ASICS are what you’d consider retros).
Random links + Gorgeous shoes:
Kim Gordon a.k.a mom is in the Town & Country mags’ third annual The OG 100 List, which i didn’t know about until now but i love the idea of. I would rather be an OG than a Forbes __ under __ any day.
I am once again praising the Martine Ali x converse creative.
No one is having more fun selling jeans than Alex Mill.
The YProject Salomons are a must… debate your mother
Junya Watanabe x HOKA mules echo the CDG shox from a while back, but more amped up
I do love the Petra Collins creative for Nike Women
Just sharing these Prada SS12 heels bc why not
Thats all friends. Thank you for reading, replying, sharing 🩵
GG xx